A link to this article was recently posted in one of the Facebook stitching groups I am a member of. I thought it was worth sharing.
“The following article was written by Debi Feyh of Nordic Needle and published in their weekly e-mail newsletter. Permission was granted by Nordic Needle to share this article in (Pat’s Cross Stitch Corner). For information on subscribing to their weekly e-mail newsletter, visit www.nordicneedle.com.
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Should I include a signature?
Historically, sampler designs often included the stitcher’s name or initials and the year it was completed. Many famous stitchers included their signature on their needlework including Mary Queen of Scots. In addition, artisans in other media usually sign or mark their artwork.
What should my signature include?
This is a personal choice, one that artists struggle with even today. Here are some of the options to consider:
- Your initials (2 or 3), possibly worked into a monogram.
- First name & last initial, first initial & full last name, or full name.
- Design a personal logo which you can work into the piece. Potters often use a special symbol to sign their work. James Whistler, the painter known for such works as Whistler’s Mother, used a stylized butterfly as his signature. The butterfly design changed over the course of his painting, which also provides a time frame for when the painting was done.
TIP: If you come up with a logo or signature you like, then graph it so you don’t have to reinvent the wheel each time
What if I am single, gotten divorced, or remarried, how should I sign my pieces?
One of the best answers I found was to sign your first name on the front and then include something on the back that includes your full name (at that time) and the date. This helps people identify your pieces over time.
How should you write the date?
You should always use all 4 digits of the year. Many of our textiles are being preserved and it is possible to have work from 1810, 1910 and 2010 but if the piece says ’10 it can be an arguing point.
Where should I put my signature?
- Keep in mind how you are going to finish the piece so that your signature isn’t cut off or hidden by the finishing.
- You don’t have to sign or stitch your name in the lower right hand corner. Find a place in the design and use a slightly darker or lighter thread color so that it blends in.
- Perhaps there isn’t a good place for your signature. You can purchase personalized handiwork labels which can be tacked on to the back of your piece. Be sure to add the date with permanent ink before you attach it to your piece.
- Create your own personal label on a separate piece of cloth and attach it to your piece, like the quilt labels.
- If you do sign your work, it is suggested to use the same technique that the piece is done in. However, sometimes it is not possible for needle workers to stitch their signature in the design. You could sign your work with permanent ink, such as Elaine Keller from Candle in the Cellar does. Be sure to test your pen on a scrap of the fabric before you try writing it on the finished piece!
- A trend in the art community is to sign the front but include more information on the back like the painting’s name, full artist’s signature, date, special artist’s symbol AND a fingerprint!! Pretty hard to argue with the fingerprint when it comes down to whether it is a forgery or not.
What if it is a piece from a pattern?
There are several thoughts on whether or not you should sign a piece that is stitched from a pattern or a kit. One of the prevailing thoughts is that most of us put our own twist on the design. Another idea is that it is okay as long as you aren’t selling your work. (That’s a whole other copyright issue.) I would suggest a compromise by signing your name but on the label or documentation list the pattern name and designer. That shows you are not taking credit for the design only the execution of it.
You can read the entire article, Documentation on the Nordic Needle website.